Pre-cut Corners4th April 2016
Whilst we try to make everything as easy as possible for installation of our coving, we recognise that probably the most difficult aspect is cutting the internal and external coving mitres. Getting the corner cuts right can be a challenging task, especially the first time around – which is why we came up with a solution to make the process that bit easier.
Pre-cut internal and external coving mitres
Our answer is that we have taken some of our most popular coving patterns and mitre cut the relevant internal or external corners – so you don’t have to puzzle over which direction or angle to make the cut.
Basically we have taken a 2m length and cut the respective mitres in the middle, so each left hand/right hand mitred piece is a 1m section. All you have to do is apply Extra Fix adhesive on the cut face and bond the 2 parts together. This adhesive is designed like superglue and gives a chemical reaction on the surface of the material. The result is a joint that is so hard it is actually stronger than the basic raw material itself. Used correctly, the join will not separate so the look of your coving won’t be spoiled by unsightly gaps or cracks.
Note that we have mitred the sections to an exact 45 degree angle for the 2 pieces. It may be the case that your room corner is not exactly 90 degrees, so there may still be an element of filling with the adhesive or decorator’s caulk, irrespective of the accuracy of any cut.
The coving profiles that we currently have mitred corners for are:
Corners for other profiles could also potentially be cut, subject to a lead time and sufficient quantity.
Tips on how to cut coving corners using a mitre box
If you choose to do the mitre cuts yourself, it is important to ensure you have a quality mitre box of sufficient size – people often overlook this when purchasing coving for a DIY project. The standard mitre boxes supplied at the typical DIY stores often do not have a backplate that is high enough to accommodate coving other than the smallest designs.
The backplate should be at least the height (aka drop) of the coving from the ceiling down the wall and ideally it should also have adjustable stops to securely hold the coving in the box and prevent it slipping when applying the angled mitre cut. Any slippage will mean that the cut will not be true and the cut face will appear to have a ‘bow’ in it.
Normal mitre boxes will only cut to a 45 degree angle (and 22.5) whereas compound mitre saws can cut to more precise one-degree measurements but these can be more expensive to buy.
In terms of a cutting saw, a normal medium tooth, cross-cut saw is usually fine. Try and use a saw that has a fairly stiff blade as again, this will help prevent any bowing to the cut face.
Further advice on installing your coving
If you need any further advice on how to cut and install your coving – we are more than happy to discuss your requirements with you – please call us on 020 8660 2854. For a full working guide, see our easy step by step Coving Installation Guide.